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Emulsifier Guide: Cream & Conditioner Formulations with Olivem 1000, BTMS 50, Glyceryl Stearate, and Cetearyl Alcohol

What is an Emulsifier? Why is it So Important?

The heart of a cream and lotion formulation is the emulsifier. Without these components, which ensure that oil and water remain stable together, it is not possible to produce cream. The correct emulsifier selection directly determines the cream's texture, absorption, and stability.

Olivem 1000 — Natural Cosmetics' Favorite

Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate), derived from olive oil, is one of the most popular natural O/W emulsifiers approved by COSMOS ECOCERT. Thanks to its structure, which is similar to skin's lipid structure, it provides excellent biocompatibility.

  • COSMOS ECOCERT approved, completely natural
  • Light, silky feel — leaves no greasy residue
  • Wide oil phase tolerance (5-30% oil)
  • Ideal for sensitive skin
  • Usage rate: 3-8%

BTMS 50 — Indispensable for Hair Care

BTMS 50, containing Behentrimonium Methosulfate, is a cationic emulsifier. It leaves a positive charge on the hair, adhering to negatively charged hair fibers and providing excellent conditioning effects.

  • Ideal for hair conditioners and masks
  • Prevents static electricity, improves combability
  • Makes hair soft and shiny
  • Can also be used in skincare
  • Usage rate: 3-8% (hair), 2-5% (skin)

Glyceryl Stearate — Co-Emulsifier & Texturizer

Not an emulsifier on its own, it is used as a co-emulsifier. It imparts a velvety, rich texture to creams and increases emulsion stability.

  • Rich, velvety feel for creams
  • Increases emulsion stability
  • Slight humectant properties
  • Usage rate: 1-5%

Cetearyl Alcohol — The Building Block of Cream

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol used as an emollient and thickener in skincare. Despite its name, it is not irritating; on the contrary, it is soothing.

  • 50:50 (O/W): For water-based creams, light texture
  • 30:70 (O/W): For richer, thicker creams
  • Improves cream stability and texture
  • Usage rate: 1-5%

Basic Cream Formula — with Olivem 1000 (100 grams)

Raw Material Rate (%) Phase
Distilled Water 70% Water Phase
Glycerin 5% Water Phase
Olivem 1000 5% Oil Phase
Cetearyl Alcohol 50:50 2% Oil Phase
Glyceryl Stearate 2% Oil Phase
Jojoba Oil 8% Oil Phase
Shea Butter 5% Oil Phase
Microcare DB 1% Cool Down Phase
Lavender EO 1% Cool Down Phase
Niacinamide 1% Water Phase

Hair Conditioner Formula — with BTMS 50 (100 grams)

Raw Material Rate (%) Phase
Distilled Water 78% Water Phase
BTMS 50 6% Oil Phase
Cetearyl Alcohol 30:70 3% Oil Phase
Almond Oil 5% Oil Phase
Provitamin B5 2% Water Phase
Hydrolyzed Collagen 2% Cool Down Phase
Microcare DB 1% Cool Down Phase
Ylang Ylang EO 1% Cool Down Phase
Bergamot EO 1% Cool Down Phase
Lavender EO 1% Cool Down Phase