The Gentlest AHA: Mandelic Acid
Mandelic Acid, derived from bitter almond extract, is the member of the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) family with the largest molecular size. Its large molecular structure allows it to penetrate the skin more slowly, making it much gentler than Glycolic Acid and ideal for sensitive skin.
Benefits of Mandelic Acid
- Gentle chemical exfoliation — removes dead skin cells
- Evens skin tone, reduces the appearance of blemishes
- Antibacterial effect — suitable for acne-prone skin
- Low risk of PIH on sensitive and darker skin tones
- Ideal starting acid for transitioning to Glycolic Acid
Mandelic Acid Toner Formula 5% (100 ml)
| Ingredient | Ratio (%) | Phase |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled Water | 83% | Water Phase |
| Mandelic Acid | 5% | Water Phase |
| Glycerin | 3% | Water Phase |
| Pentylene Glycol | 3% | Water Phase |
| Niacinamide | 3% | Water Phase |
| Allantoin | 0.5% | Water Phase |
| Microcare DB | 1% | Cold Phase |
| pH Adjustment (NaOH or Lactic Acid) | q.s. | Cold Phase |
Target pH: 3.5-4.0 (for exfoliation effect)
Preparation Steps
- Mix all water phase ingredients at room temperature.
- Add Microcare DB.
- Adjust pH to 3.5-4.0.
- Fill into a glass toner bottle.
Usage Recommendation
Initially, apply 2-3 times a week with a cotton pad after cleansing in the evening. You can increase the frequency as your skin adapts. Always use SPF during the day.
Acid Hierarchy: Which Acid For Whom?
- Mandelic Acid: Sensitive, dark-toned, acne-prone skin
- Lactic Acid: Dry and sensitive skin, moisturizing effect
- Glycolic Acid: Normal-oily skin, strong exfoliation
- BHA (Salicylic Acid): Oily and acne-prone skin, pore cleansing