Both Acne and Spots: The Dual Effect of Azelaic Acid
Azelaic Acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid derived from wheat, rye, and barley. It is a versatile active ingredient frequently recommended by dermatologists for the treatment of both acne and hyperpigmentation. Its safe use during pregnancy makes it special.
Benefits of Azelaic Acid
- Anti-acne: Inhibits P. acnes bacteria
- Anti-spot: Reduces melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase
- Anti-inflammatory: Soothes redness and irritation
- Rosacea: Clinically approved for rosacea treatment
- Safe in pregnancy: Unlike retinol and hydroquinone
Azelaic Acid Cream Formula 10% (100 grams)
| Raw Material | Ratio (%) | Phase |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled Water | 62% | Water Phase |
| Glycerin | 5% | Water Phase |
| Azelaic Acid | 10% | Oil Phase (soluble in heat) |
| Olivem 1000 | 5% | Oil Phase |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | 2% | Oil Phase |
| Caprylic Capric Triglyceride | 5% | Oil Phase |
| Niacinamide | 4% | Water Phase |
| Allantoin | 0.5% | Water Phase |
| Zinc PCA | 1% | Cool Down Phase |
| Microcare DB | 1% | Cool Down Phase |
Important: Azelaic Acid dissolves in the oil phase at 70-75°C. It may crystallize upon cooling; therefore, homogenization is important.
Preparation Steps
- Melt Azelaic Acid with CCT and other oil phase components at 75°C.
- Bring the water phase (water, glycerin, Niacinamide, Allantoin) to the same temperature.
- Add the water phase to the oil phase and homogenize with a blender.
- Below 40°C, add Zinc PCA and Microcare DB.
- Adjust pH to 4.5-5.5.
What Not to Combine With
Azelaic Acid should not be used simultaneously with Retinol or strong AHA/BHA. Alternating use, such as Azelaic Acid in the morning and Retinol in the evening, is recommended.